There she goes. Standing on her sled pulled by 16 dogs, Karin moves across the cheering crowd, weaving and smiling. She is just starting one of the toughest races in the world, the Iditarod. 1150 miles toward Nome from Willow, alone with her dogs, through the Alaskan wilderness, though storms, cold dark nights. I felt such a wimp seeing her leaving, and felt so proud to have such a friend.
The Iditarod trail was one of the main trails the first settlers using to enter in deeper Alaska. It was used by explorers, priests, judges, hunters, to transport mail and supplies to remote villages.
In the 1920’s the era of the plane came, and this trail that played such an important role in Alaskan history was almost forgotten. Then one woman, Dorothy G. Page, thought that it would be a good idea (and would bring the historical role of the Iditarod into a new light) to organize every year a dog sled race along the trail. Imagine somebody saying (anywhere else in the world): “ehi, why don’t we make a 1150 miles race in a freezing country, just you and your dogs, no hotels….”. People would probably laugh at it and not take you seriously. But not in Alaska. Alaskans are though people, and their answer would be: “oh yeah! This is a great idea!!!”. Soon enough, in 1973, the first 22 mushers finished the first ever Iditarod race (and I met one of them yesterday at lunch and I told him I would advertise his new book “Trail breakers”, so please check it out at this link!). To date, fewer people finished the Iditarod trail then climb Mt. Everest!!!
I returned to Anchorage with Dave after the backpack trip to Talovana hotspring, in time for his birthday, and then I moved to Karin’s house to help her out with anything I could (mainly house things, because I know nothing about dogs!).
I met her at the musher’s banquet downtown Anchorage, where the mushers (now real celebrities!) meet with the public and extract the number that will tell them in which order they would be leaving the trail. There are 68 teams running this year. Karin will be number 29.
(Karin signing autographs, and Karin on a wine bottle. The musher banquet is also a big fund raising event)
On Saturday there was a ceremonial race start in Anchorage downtown. I took a dog handler class the day before and I was able to hang out with the teams. It seems like the whole race is ran by volunteers, and lots of them are from the lower States, but there were also people from other improbable places, like Paris or me, American Samoa.
The atmosphere was vibrant in Anchorage. There were masses of people from all over, media, helicopters. During the same week, the Rondy festival also took place, a reconstruction of the fur trade festival which included reindeer sausage eating contest, softball on snowshoes, the run of the reindeer (like the run of the bulls in Pamplona… only that the reindeer must have been terrified “Oh my, we are surrounded by a herd of human!”).
This first day only covered few miles (20?), and I was also able to cover my second job as trail guard in the part, and got nice pics. It felt cold, colder than I would have expected for 4 degrees. Then I realized that it was 4’F and not Celsius, which would translate in –15’C. I was so glad I could borrow Varon’s parka!!
(cute noses!!!)
(Irene, Karin's absolute #1 dog handler)
(me, Karin and Shannon... don't you love her sunglasses!?!? ;-)!!!)
(yes, I was cold...)
(I stole this picture from Karin's blog. Here, shining at the starting line)
(mushing in Anchorage's park. This place must be wonderful in summer)
(Alaskan fridge. Varon put the beer in with an attention... it seemed he was dealing with kriptonite)
Sunday we went to official start in Willow, farther north. Karin had her last warm and cozy good night sleep after making sure all the latest details were taken care of. On her side, her husband, Varon, and her dog handler, Irene, did all was possible to support her. And family and friends also came all the way from California to support her. Fans crowed along the fence to wish the mushers good luck, while the kids played in the park, next to the hanging wolf’s skins.
(I loved that they stationed the "yellow snow" team next to the restroom)
(Last last preparation, and down here, getting ready to leave!)
(this guy kept 2 dogs in a little dog bag behind in, to have 2 fresh dogs on rotation every day)
GO! 1150 miles left!
On Sunday night I felt exhausted. While Irene was shoveling ice-cream in her mouth (apparently Alaska is the biggest consumer of ice-cream. Incredible), I went down hard on chocolate. I guess I have been on the go for the past month, packing, mailing, cleaning, working, paragliding, hiking… it is now time to rest! On Monday I went downtown to work on a internet café’, but I ended up spending all day with Damon, a guy that I fed for a year in Oregon, about 8 years ago. The world is small indeed. And I did indded cook for many many people…I think one I will just open a restaurant and retire.
This week, I am planning zero excitement and a 100% focus on my on-line class.
This I can do comfortably from Doug’s house, wearing my pajama all day long, sipping a tea while outside is snowing. This is another aspect of winter that I love.
and to follow Karin on her adventure, or to see how you can sponsor her, check out her site! (Irene just posted a cool picture from the trail! She lost one dog already (they had to ship her back home, but being very strong on the trail!)
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