Backpacking in Alaska

There is a major different when you hike with a boyfriend or just a friend. If you were hiking with your boyfriend and said “I do not think we really have time to have breakfast at the bar, we should get going”, your boyfriend would know automatically that what it really means is: “if we do not leave right now, you are not getting laid for the next 2 weeks”. But when you hike with a friend that already knows that he is not getting laid what-so-ever, his reaction would be “Oh well, I may as well have breakfast anyway”.So SnowDave and I left for the trail quite late. After Dave’s breakfast, naturally.I hiked 11 miles in a day different times, but this time I did not consider how the cold and the snow could really slow us down. Or the tear of a muscle. My constant re-hydratation plans failed after 2 minutes on the trail, when all our water froze solid. Great.

SnowDave and I have been backpacking buddies for the past 6 years. In 3 years in Alaska, Dave grew a winter-bear belly, a 1-week old bear, and strong resistance to cold temperatures. In 3 years in the South Pacific, I grew very long hair, a tan, and a strong resistance to warm temperature. I started in disadvantage.

1^st thoughts: “uh, I am having such a work out, feels good to feel the body this way. I love Akiko and the chemical warmers from Japan she presented me last Xmas. I love JB and the super tech shirt he presented me last Xmas”.

2^nd thoughts (after, at mile 6, I tore my leg muscle and could barely move my leg forward): “I still love Akiko and JB… (other thoughts are censured). We are never going to make it before dark. Stupid Dave’s breakfast. And doesn’t he know that chocolate and bear spray would always be ready available when hiking?”

3^rd thoughts (as I hear wolves howling on the other side of the hill. Just after sunset. I feel like the hurt animal of a pack, the one that the wolves usually go after): “I am not scared of wolves. I dealt with samoan dogs for 3 years and got no bites. Let me just collect… no… no rocks around… would snow balls work against wolves?” … “Plus I am wearing so much plastic, who would ever want to eat me?”…

4^th thoughts (we are on the top of the hill, it is stormy, we lost the trail and we are wondering in hip deep snow. It is REALLY cold, and I am in pain): “This is so funny. I still have the Hawaiian airline premier tag attached to my backpack. Whoever finds my body will have a laugh!”.

5^th thoughts (it is dark already, but from now on it is all downhill, the storm ended as fast as it started, I feel much warmer too): “there is a warm cabin at the end of the road, and hot springs… think positive, think positive… after all it is so beautiful here”.

I am way out my zone of comfort, but Dave still feel comfortable with it and that makes me feel better. Plus he tells me that our cabin is the one closest to the trail. I am glad we planned 2 days in the cabin instead than hiking out the next day. I can still love him now.
The cabin felt like a 5 stars resort, after the wood stove was turned on. Somebody left some body butter behind. 5 stars SPA. We ate 1 kg of pasta Barilla, and then ran to soak on the hot spring. Stars all around us. Magical. Warm. Priceless. I am glad I made it.

On the second day I discovered I can make quite a good snow soup with 1 potato, 1 onion, 1 carrot and 1 safeway sandwich. I showered the snow outside from the cabin, I felt like an Alaska woman.
The outhouse, a way down the trail from the cabin, was incredibly nice as well. The styrofoam seat was not cold at all. The view on the burch wood and Raven’s visit made the experience nice. I now understand why there are so many poetry about Alaskan outhouses in the university in Fairbanks.
Temperatures got as low as –20’F (-29’C) (note the minus sign -only last week i was living in a tropical island, Life does change very fast sometimes...). Dave checked the thermometer continually; there is some kind of Alaskan sadism in enjoying being (and surviving) in the coldest temperature ever.
A day of no walk, rest and hot food at springs felt like the most beautiful thing on earth.

The third day we hiked back to the truck. I walked no-stop for the whole 11-miles. I was way too scared about stopping, freezing and tearing my muscle even more. I wobbled like an injured penguin all the way, proceeding less than 10 centimeters each step. But I did not despair: deep inside me, I knew that prince charming would appear with the equivalent of a Mercedes snowmobile or with a team of 10 wonderful sled dogs and give me a ride. Dave suggested that prince charming only works on weekends. He may have been right. 1 mile away from the truck, I swore that if prince charming would appear, I would kick his snowmobile into pieces.(on the way back the weather was very nice over the pass. But very very cold)

But I still loved Akiko and JB for the chemical warmers and the shirt. Especially when the cold really got me and I started shaking like a leaf, unable to move my hands (the only moment when I saw Dave really worrying –but we did have enough gear to survive a night out, if really needed).
At 0.5 miles away from the car, Dave decided to put me out of my misery and told me to drop my backpack, he would go back to pick it up later. I was truly in deep pain. I tried hard not to cry for 2 main reasons: crying is worthless anyway, it won’t help; the tears will freeze straight into your eyelashes making the walk even more uncomfortable. But I did cry out loud once I climbed into the truck (the biggest and more painful step of the hike!) but the chocolate soon comforted me. Honestly, it was a great hike and I would do it again, but with a sled this time (there was a lot of elevation gain and lost). I think if I would have not tear my muscle it would have been simply wonderful.

We were about 2 hours northwest from Fairbanks, on the road that takes you to the artic circle. We stopped in a brewery on the way and dragged ourselves in for a warm dinner. It was –15’F (-26’C) outside.
The waitress promptly brought us 2 glasses of water. I looked at the glass closely. It was filled with ice cubes.
Alaska. No comment.