James Bond is back...

As most of the islanders are in a state of continuous agitation over the coming election in the US (all my understanding, I wish I could vote too sometimes!), my attention goes to something that warms my heart more... James Bond is back on island.

I know you are probably expecting to hear a lot about it, but truth is, I feel quite speechless.
I even finished the chocolate, but I do not care. Who needs chocolate when there is such a sweet on island? I feel like I got it all: first a dream house, then a dog. I started my on-line class and I am learning lots of new interesting things about restoration. Now....

We had another awesome weekend together, nothing could go better. On saturday we kayaked to a deserted cove on the north side of the island and played Heaven.(He found this sea cave... the sea level change was at least a meter, in between the high and the low phase of the wave... wonderful!)

I guess the one million dollars question was: did I want a relationship with a not-honest man, or, did I want a not-relationship with an honest man? I chose the second option, and I can't feel wiser about it!
He is going to be here a bit longer (although he did leave for a shorter mission next island again), but next weekend we have planned another crazy long weekend that, if we will all survive, it is going to be hard to forget...

PS: and for the many that asked me if he is taller or not (which I was not sure), he is! yeah! ;)

Note for the islanders: Even if i start writing this blog for my friends back home (wherever that is), i know many of you are also reading the blog, and often wonder about events they may have missed. My ex-boyfriend (if I can call it, considering he now denies we ever had a "relationship" --- I am not talking about Paul which I love a lot--) wrote me the usual sweet (i am being ironic here) e-mail telling me how few people were concerned about what I wrote. Since most of you do not really know what happened, or anyway just heard one side of the story, please do not try to judge me or him as you are most probably missing some information. I did not want to label him as a generally "dishonest" guy, but in my experience I can say he did not express himself quite right. I had the relationship/honesty discussion once with my friends back home, and through this experience I finally decided on which side of the one million dollar question I want to stand. That was past, and let it stay there, island way! We are both extremely happy now, and that is the important thing!
And NO, we are definitly not going to have a public hearing about it! ;)

Question for the islanders

How many times did you go to work, and suddenly realized that you forgot the shoes at home?

I did it again this morning. I know of a guy that in a 2 years contract did it at least 4 times. I usually have spare shoes in the car, but this time i had to walk to the store and buy a new pair of flip flop... oh well... my frineds will understand.... ;)

I posted this before, but it is still my favorite..."oh, eternal life is fine, but what i really like is getting to wear flip-flops all the time"

- Yesterday was thursday right?
-right
-Why don't we have a "thanks god is its friday" party like we used to?

A glass of wine will do it

I have been super busy this week... I just want to make sure the next two weeks I won't have to move a finger and just enjoy life... This is my last day wife-sitting, I will definitly miss it, thanks Nadia!!! And so looking forward to move into the new dream house.
Last night I got a break from cleaning, writing, etc... and went to a movie preview: "sex in the city". It was great seeing some people (since I feel like I disappeared for a while -I was quite sick last week-), and even if I was there for only one hour, that was enough to drink a very strong glass of wine (I am such a light weight!!!).
I guess I have been in the mood "You only live once, enjoy life at its best!"... and I have been wanting to have a dog since I was 18, but I never did because of my itchy traveling feet problem... Well, i decided not too wait any longer (10 years have passed already!!!) and so, when last night Tim and Ana came to pick my up from the movie and asked me if i wanted to adopt a dog, Sausage's sister, Nala, and said "YES! I always wanted one!!!" Truth is in wine?
She will come Saturday, but she is going to be a neighborhood dog, so I won't have her until I move in the 15th of october! SOOOOO HAAPPPPPPPYYYY!

Yesterday I also went to sample the streams on the west side of the island, here some pictures...

Fagatelle bay. This is a Protected Sanctuary where fishing is not allowed... Last month my team so some whales here, so I was hoping to see same too today. I did not see any, but my other team so 2 in Fagasa!!! Fagatelle spring. I sample this site once a month. Nice morning walk...
A typical bus waiting place. I do not call this a bus stop, because, even if the bus does stop here, there is not such a think like specific bus stops on island. Any centimeter of road (or grass) on this island could be labeled as bus stop: as soon as you knock on the wooden seat on the bus, the driver will do numbers to stop within 10 seconds from knocking...
Monday, wednesday and friday we have 1/2 hour fitness program in my agency. Usually we go out with the 6-men outrigger, but if we do not have enough people to put the boat in the water, well, I can still do my exercise in my cubicle! :)

The joys of wife sitting at Canco Hill

Yesterday evening: I am sitting on the floor of my new dream house painting the wall. Ana is standing next to me painting higher up. We hear Ana’s dogs (sitting on my porch) barking hysterically. We both look at the window to see what is our there. I cannot see anybody due to my lower position, but Ana’s tells me that is one of the neighbors walking her dogs. I grim and think (and say at the same time because, after all, I am a woman): “uaa, what is wrong with her dogs? Can’t they walk themselves by their own?” Ana looks at me with the same stunned expression “yeah, I know, that is so weird”.
We return to our painting… I keep on thinking how weird it is to walk a dog.
Then I realize how islander I can be sometime. After all, palagi dogs in palagi countries are not allowed to walk around by their own so they need to be walked. Some palagi that move here, still keep that tradition.
I guess it is like using the indicators to turn, or stopping at the stop sign when you are driving. Or complain is your food is served VERY late or it is just something that you did not order. If you do these little things, sometimes, it just feels like being home.

This week I have been assumed as wife-sitting. Brian went off-island and he asked me to go and stay home with his wife for the week. As I actually already stay and sleep at their house every time I am given a chance, I accepted without hesitation.
Wife sitting is awesome! I have somebody to chat with in the evening, Nadia also braids my hair, cook, reminds me about taking breakfast in the morning. The other night she was reading a book about nutrition while I was reading a book about Papa New Guinea. Every time she found out something interesting she would tell me. I think that is great! It is like reading two books at the same time, so efficient! I cannot believe some guys complain about it. The other day I wake up and something was hugging me. I turned around to see 2 years old Noa smiling and screaming “papa!”… No, I am prettier than that! Wife sitting is the way to go! ;)

Big news: I am moving right next door from Brian and Nadia, on top of Canco hill. The name, which I though was kind of exotic, actually was given when the hill was rented for residence for the guys building the tuna cannery. Can Company. Can Co. Hill. To me, Canco Hill always felt like a local Beverly Hill.
My new dream house as a wonderful view on Leone, the Tafuna plain all the way to the Aunuu, and you could even imagine something on the northern side of the mountain… a 260 degree view… There is a constant breeze that cools down the house all the time (which is going to be great since summer is coming soon here) and the house survived 5 typhoons already, which is great news too (while the stilt house where I was leaving would most probably not last a second)…

Yesterday afternoon I walked around the land with my new neighbors: here the papaya tree, here the mango trees, here the lemon tree, here the avocado tree, here the bananas, here you can find pineapples…. fresh tomatoes and salads are also available in exchange of a fresh loaf of Tuscan bread… I felt like Eve getting a tour of Heaven.

Can I ask for anything more??? Adam? Heeeeeelllllllllllooooooo? (coming soon, coming soon! ;))
(Plus, I got permission to kidnap one of Ana’s dog every night to sleep with me! Awesome!)

Last night I went for a walk with Ana. When I first moved on island, she was one of the first people I met that made me feel home. Now she is doing it again! The road was dark, but small lamps rechargeable with solar energy alone the road illuminated our walk. Along the road they were flowers blooming (that are always present on island), fruit trees and screaming bats (they sounds like fighting cats). The view on the Tafuna plain was wonderful. All those colored lights, the landing strip illuminated for the big Hawaiian Airline Sunday plane, and the half moon illuminating part of the reef and breaking waves. It felt like being in one of these fancy places in Tuscany where Romans go to spend the summer. I love this place!

Pirate's day in Neverland

I wish I could speak like a pirate, but unfortunately I haven’t seen enough pirate movies in English to memorize any of their speech manners. Why would I want to talk like a pirate? Well, today is International Talk Like a Pirate Day!!!

(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Talk_Like_a_Pirate_Day)

Our local pirates knew about this and were very fast spreading the voice, and I am sure they will do a great job! Naturally, in Neverland this holiday seems to be very welcome! This morning I received an invitation to an hallowing party. I think the author is a genius:

“To all buccaneers, rascals, and old scallywags
(those with lots o' loot and those only with rags):
Ye be invited to a hearty piratey Halloween party,
on Halloween night, startin' around seven-tharty.

Ye should come dressed in yer swash-bucklin' best:
ye needs a wooden peg leg or an old eye patch,
a fierce-lookin' hook or a beard ye can scratch.

We's gots snacks and drinks enough fer a large crew,
ye should bring somethin' along to eat or drink too.
We'll drink lots o' rum faster than ye can blink,
pirates all know ye can't have too much o' that drink.

Ye'll find our abode down the Road.
It's a-facin' the sea and thar easterly breeze,
in the front yard is bunches o' coconut trees.

We'll see ye next month, tho it's a long ways away,
just remember ye gots to talk like a pirate today!”

I know we are the place where the days ends… so for most of you is already tomorrow, but if you read this post and it is still the 19 of September… say a couple of pirates words and thing of us, pirates and lost kids in Neverland!

From Captain Hook:

"Avast belay, yo ho, heave to,
A-pirating we go
And if we're parted by a shot
We're sure to meet below!"

"Yo ho, yo ho, the pirate life,
The flag o'skull and bones
A merry hour, a hempen rope
And 'hey' for Davy Jones!"

what a weekend!!! Got Tattoos!!

It is good to know you can leave the island if you want (and have the money). It is good to know that next island here is a family always ready to welcome you with open arms. I just feel so good today!

My weekend in Apia was marvelous! I left on Thursday on the first flight after work. SPEX (South Pacific Express) is the way to go. A part from the back that the plane looks incredibly square (any aerodynamic principle here?), and that there was a dead cucaracha between the passenger and the outside window (how did it get there?), the flight left in time even if there were many empty seats (how unusual), and there was also a flight assistant serving water and juice (how unusual!!!).

Once in Apia, I met Paul at Paddles, an Italian-owned restaurant. Last time I went to Italy I bought them a deck of Italian cards and I was so happy to finally be able to award the treasure to them. Being so isolated, it feels just priceless to be with people that speak, move and behave like you. After few drinks with the Italians, Paul took me for dinner in a wonderful terrace with the view of Apia… ahhh… I wish we had places like this too here… And the food was excellent and not to expensive neither.

We say in Italy “it is easy to start something, what it is hard is to finish it well”. I think Paul and I did a good job ending our relationship. We still love, respect and care for each other so much, without that romantic bend.

Friday morning he took me to the vegetable market (and I wish I had picture to show you but my camera is out of business at the moment…), then I drove him to a meeting down town and stole his car to go to Aggie Gray by the sea, where my friend Giovanni is the manager of the SPA.

Did you ever had your head and feet massaged at the same time? It is orgasmonic!!! You just do not know if you should focus on the pleasure down there or up there… you just get lost in a limbo status… with birds singing, waterfall gorging, waves breaking and the wind shaking leaves all around you… what an experience!

Giovanni totally spoiled me, trying to accommodate any of my wish. You see how far a deck of Italian cards can take you? Here a poetry he wrote for me, in honor of my eyebrows… ;)
“quando leggerai le mie righe, le tue sopracciglia saranno ormai foresta pluviale....
torna da me,
odessa dei mari,
sperduta nei meandri
di una terra a me ignota....”

Knowing that he and Dora (his sister) are right next island suddenly makes me staying so much more delightful! I really hope they will make it over in AS for a gnocchi night!

(the 3 ________ ________ (blank blank) italians of the Samoas. Myself, Giovanni and Dora)

Back to Apia, Paul took me to a canyon next to his house… wonderland…

Saturday…. Da-da-dan!!!

I have never been much of a tattoo person. I never found it like something attractive, on the opposite, I knew the difficulty I would have taking home a guy with a tattoo. But after living here for so long, having a tattoo seems like something so natural, honorable…

Since Samoa is the only place in the Pacific where the tradition continued uninterrupted by the missionary, it seemed to me it would be that, if I were ever to have a tattoo, this would be the perfect place, done in the traditional way, naturally.
The traditional way consist of the teeth of a board, fingered, immersed in the ink, and tapped into your skin, as 2 other guy stretch your skin. Now, I have no idea why on Saturday morning this seemed a very good idea to me.

We (Paul, myself and Jeff, Paul’s momentarily roommate until I showed up) drove to Sulu’ape village. He did not explain us how to get to his house, he just said to drive to the village and then ask for direction. So we did. The first direction we got where useless: “after the church, next to the ulu tree”… like if these were unique features. Then… we asked a lady in a shop… she tried for a moment to give directions, but soon she surrended, called her 6-8 years old son and told him to jump in the car with us and show us the way. We left with the kid as if it was something normal. Soon after we though “is the mam calling the police right now saying that 3 palagis kidnapped her son?”. And “if I were a mother, would I have tell me son to jump in the car with 3 foreneirs?”. But this is also the magic of this place. Small island, small village, fast gossips… it does not take long for everybody in the village to know who you are and what you are doing there… We soon arrived to Sulu'ape house. His son his doing a traditional samoan tattoo on a woman... he had a t-shirt saying "If you knew what I was thinking, you would not be smiling"...

Sulu’ape Pepelo is a master tattooist. More. He is the master. He is the one that taught to many, the one which the chiefs and kings go to.

Tattoes masters have been in his family forever. He learned from his dad, which learned from his grandfather, same way his sons learned from him. One of his sons uses the modern tattoing gun, but he still tattoo exclusively in the traditional way. It is an honor for all of us to get a tattoo from him.

Jeff was the first one to get his tattoo. A band around his arm. From his facial expression it did not seems like something that painful. “Nothing can be worth than the dentist” I kept on thinking not worrying too much…

My turn... I guess I tryied to buy time... I asked Sulu'ape how he cleans his toold. He replied that he has an infra-somethings machine on the top of that fale. I looked out. I saw a pig roaming... am I screwed?

I told Sulu’ape I wanted a band on my feet, something with the “malu” that in the samoan symbology means “shelter, protection”. I though it would be great if my steps would be protected on their way to the… unknown. Then I asked for fish as I am an oceanographer, and birds, as I am a pilot. And because it seems like my life is moving from the ocean to the land.

He looked at my foot, draw few spots with a marker and asked me to lay down. Two guys, sitting at each side of my foot, stretched the skin so that Sulu’ape could start. “WHAT THE F!@!!!” I did not say it out loud. In fact I did not say anything out loud during the all process, but my mind was running fast … “This is worth that the dentist! No way, I need to find a way out of this! Oh my god, did something that tusk just got stack on my anklebone? Is my pinky toe still attached to the feet? What is he hitting? I have a nerve there! I swear!!! Is he done yet?”…. He did finished after ½ hour of pure continue pain.

(Thinking: "was it yesterday that i was lying on a SPA bed? my happy place...")

(Trying to keep busy and distracted..)

I looked at my tattoo and I liked it. I loved it. The pain goes away fast, the beauty stays there… I told Sulu’ape: “I love it! Can you now do the other foot before I change my mind?” and in my mind “F@*K!! Did I just say it out loud? I am screwed! How do I get out of this…” and so on, as I was lying down on the other side, and through the next ½ hour it took to complete the second tattoo.

Paul was next. He got a big band following his shoulder plate on his back. He was clearly in pain, and that gave me a bit of comfort as I felt such a wimp. If Paul shows pain, they I am totally allowed to be bitchy about it!!! IT HURTED!!! I am leaving with the knowledge now that the dentist… puff! I am not scared of them anymore!!!

After the tattoos were done (Sulu’ape worked no-stop for 4 ½ hours!) we won a late lunch with him and his family, and then we went to drown our pain in alcohol. Full day.

Sunday… no walking please… but the island is huge and there are many opportunities… We just went to a nice tourist resort on the South, bought a bunch of meat and had a tasty bbq! My biggest revelation was the discovery of the Hash House Harries, a drinking club with a running problem. It is very active in Apia on Mondays, and I am planning to make it to same of their meetings… More to be told after I experience it on my skin!!!

After dinner, I had the chocolate and movie Paul promise me, and slept once more like a baby… The taxi came monday morning at 5.30 to take me back to Neverland... and ironically, straight back to work and reality...

well, with only 10 hours holiday, I had a great weekend!!!

I link to Sulu’ape…

http://tongan_tattoo.tripod.com/TonganTattoo/id9.html

Tap Tap Tap...

"tap tap tap" even the sound of a gecko is enough to give me goose bumbs... It just sounds too much like the sound of the tatoo master Sulu'ape tapping the board's task, wet with ink, into my skin (and bones!)...

Intensive weekend, intensive weekend... stay tuned for story telling time! Here a little preview...
(I will post of picture of my tattoos soon... a bit of suspense!)As the master taps taps taps, two guys make sure your skin is fully stretched all the time. A third guy provides some breeze, keeping the mosquitoes away...Jeff was the first one to get his tattoo (band on the arm)... the father of the pig on the background is the one that donated that task... ;)

Taking a rest for Paul.. his tattoo took more than 2 hours!!! And... did you see "my big fat Greek wedding"?... is that windex they used to clean us???

Gotta go

I have to go! sometimes the island it is just too small and you have to leave. You have to know you can leave if you want. (is it like Hotel California?). So, I am leaving, i am going far far away. At least 20 miles away, maybe 30... I am ready for a full relaxing weekend in Western Samoa!

thursday: dinner with friends
friday: total SPA and relax with a friend
saturday: tatoo with my ex!
sunday: exploring, new places...
monday: flight back to Neverland...

And.. another good news! I am moving to a new house, on top of a hill, wonderful, the kitchen was made for me... and surrounded by great friends! I cannot wait to be there! I loved my house, but I was feeling too lonely there. I really need a roommate now!!!! If anybody is interested let me know!!!

Yesterday we had naked woman night at my house... i wish I had more time to tell you all about it but i need to run to get on the plane... trust me, i was LOTS of FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

have a good weekend everybody!!!

The fish-ball effect: gossip island

I heard a wonderful paragon about the island: the island is like a fish ball. And from here I could articulate with many many many metaphors.

The world is the ocean, and the people are the fishes (fishes because of many different species). The ocean is filled (hypothetically, without thinking about the collapse of the fisheries) with fishes, and you are just one like many other. You do not like a particular fish? No problem, the ocean is big enough for both of you and you can avoid him/her with no problem. You dream to find the fish of your dreams? There are countless places you can look for.

But when you are in the fish ball, you need to learn to co-live with the other fishes of the fish ball, as it constrains you inside the limits of the glass, same way the ocean constrain us on this island, which is quite small too.

Similarly, in the ocean you may be a fish like many others, but in the fish ball you are quite unique, special, with unseen skills. If in the ocean you are a normal fish, in the fish ball you are a big fish. And you get jobs and ask that you would otherwise be given at bigger fish in the ocean. Which is why I think that living in the fish ball is good, as you gain much experience that you would not if living in the ocean.

The other thing is: are you looking for a cute fish that would keep you company in the night? Well, there are only 4 single fish in the fish ball, Either one of them or nothing.

I have been thinking about it a bit and I cam with a interesting answer: maybe this explains why there is so much gossip in a fish ball.

As your chances to choose a mate are limited, you need to know as much as possible about the available fish before deciding on one. This is why fish lissen to gossip, and spread more. It is all useful information (maybe, or maybe it does not matter at all).

The problem of the gossip itself is the medium it moves through. A fish tells a story about a fish to another fish. This fish repeat the story to another fish and so far… when the story reaches the last fish of the line, it is often so distorted from the original that resembles more a science fiction story!

I am choosing this topic today because I recently learned of relationships I had… relationships I was never involved what so ever! It is slightly upsetting knowing that a fish is telling stories about you, when you never saw him!!! Especially when you spend so many days all alone!! Now, I am not a saint (neither I want to be), but I was taught certain manners that a person holding my last name should follow, and I did not like hearing false rumors about me. This may sound very Samoan, but I do represent my parents, and my misbehaving would put shame as much on them as on me.

This week then has been my confrontational week, in which I investigated the sources of these rumors and faced those fishes. No, no need for the wooden spoon. It was acutally a very interesting week, and there was plenty of space for good laughs with friends! A dinner with 4 friends can really help to look at the world from the bright side! I was actually very pleased to hear many fishes laughing about my gossips, as, knowing me, they were able to distinguish reality from science fiction. So, after all there was lot of laughing involved, somebody worried, but “all is well, what ends well”! So, I would like to ask, if you hear gossip about me, before repeating it, fell free to ask for confirmation… I do not usually do things that I know I would be ashamed of… and you know that I do not drink and live a quite conscious life…

Also took part of my “confrontation week” my Portuguese ex-boyfriend Duarte. I dated Duarte for a year about 8 years ago when I was living in Wales. He broke up with in a very unnice way and I was mad at him for a while. Never looked for or hear from him again. A couple of month ago a new girl came on island. Almost immediately, we found out that we both know Duarte (can the ocean be smaller???). Through her I got in contact with him and I have to say it was actually so nice hearing from him (no fear friend, no fear!). But I had to tell him: I told him how unkind he has been with me, and I finally got rid of this bad karma I carried with me all this time. It felt so good! I think Taekwondo is very good for me, I finally came back to be a bit more fighty!
Talking with him was also very constructive, and so pleasurable to be sincere! Well, from now on, he won’t be the “bad Portuguese boyfriend” anymore… is has a much better title of which he is much more happy with! ;)

Duarte: good to hear from you!!!!!!!! I did have a great time with you after all! Best wishes! And Hannah and Ben: send news!!!

Coming back from Liverpool after a successful Judo tournament! It was so fun be being so violent!!! ;) (1 gold and 1 bronze for me!! Duarte and I on the back, Ben in the very front)

Once a month, I go around the island to collect stream samples for a monitoring program. Last week i decided to take some pictures around for you, to give you a general idea of how Neverland looks like... Enjoy it. 1. View from a crossing point (climbs up the mountain to go to the northern side).
Collecting field data...
2. Masausi village... a nice volleyball field... Samoan are great volleyball players. I mean, they do wear flip-flops when playing and there are about 15 players per side when they play, but still, the are scaring, the way they serve!!
2b. Masefau village, fales...
These hanging oxygen tanks are actully used as a belt to announce the Sa. The Sa is a holy moment, about 10 minutes long, in which none is allow to walk. You better seat down if you hear this belt ringing, and be quiet... you are suppose to pray too, at least reflect on the mysteries of the universe.
3.Alega's beach
Waterfall in Alega. I ask the guy that comes with me to take a picture of me, and, for a joke, i acted like i was going to take off my shirt and jump in... this is the only still picture he could take! jajaja! 4. these two pictures go together...
more streams
the born of an Aiga bus. Or maybe this is the burial.. not sure... let me intitle this photo as "the cycle of life"!

5. silent, sleepy village of VatiaArt for the Pacific Art festival.. close to Vatia.